Painting a Lexan (polycarbonate) RC car body needs a bit of prep, but if you do it right, the paint will stick well and last a long time. Skipping these steps is the main reason RC shells peel or flake later.
First, wash the body thoroughly. New Lexan shells come with mould release residue and factory oils that paint won’t stick to. Use warm water with mild dish soap and gently scrub the inside of the shell with a soft sponge or cloth. Rinse well and let it air-dry completely. Avoid touching the inside with your fingers afterward, as skin oils can cause paint problems.
Next, lightly scuff the inside if needed. This step is optional, but for high-stress areas or if you want extra durability, a very light scuff with a fine scouring pad or ultra-fine sandpaper can help the paint grip. Be gentle—Lexan scratches easily, and deep marks will show through the paint.
Once the body is clean and dry, mask everything carefully. Use quality masking tape or liquid mask for windows, lights, and any areas you don’t want painted. Take your time here, because clean masking lines make a huge difference to the final look. The protective film on the outside of the body should stay on during painting to protect the clear surface from overspray.
Before painting, make sure you’re using the right paint. Lexan bodies must be painted with polycarbonate-specific paint (often labeled “for Lexan” or “PS paint”). Regular acrylic or enamel paint will crack and peel because Lexan flexes when the car crashes.
When you’re ready to paint, apply light coats from the inside of the shell. Several thin layers are much better than one heavy coat. Let each coat flash off for a few minutes before applying the next. For multi-color designs, paint darker colors first and lighter colors last, since you’re painting from the inside.
After the paint has fully cured, carefully remove the masking and peel off the outer protective film. This is usually the most satisfying part—you’ll see a glossy, clean finish on the outside with the paint protected on the inside.